4.5" Tesla Turbine Hot Rotor Kit

Detailed Assembly Instructions

Page 3

7. We are now ready to cut the inner and outer disk diameters. Temporarily assemble the disks with or without the washers between. 

1. Tighten the outer diameter of the disk pack in the lathe chuck, making sure the disks are seated flat against the chuck, and perfectly perpendicular to the arbor.
2. Next, use a small-head boring bar and hardened/carbide  insert to cut the 3/4-inch (0.75") inner diameter. Carefully cut only several thousandth on each path until a hardened 3/4-inch by 4-inch bolt just barely slips through the hole.
3. Slightly chamfer the 3/4-inch bore, flip the disk pack around and chamfer the 3/4-inch bore on the backside.
4. Next, remove the disk pack from the chuck. Clamp the 3/4" bolt into the lathe chuck, slide the disk pack onto the bolt and secure with a washer and 3/4" nut. We are now ready to cut and chamfer the outer diameter.
5. (As we mentioned earlier, the disks may be cut and chamfered with or without the washers in place.) Using a tool holder with a sharp carbide insert, slowly remove the outer diameter scale. After approximately 1/16" of material is removed, the outer diameter will be smooth, shiny and concentric.
6. Finish this process by chamfering the outer disks, and between the disks, either with a triangular carbide insert or a cobalt bit cut to a 60 degree "V" shape.

Slowly remove outer diameter scale

8. Disassemble the disk pack. Clean any chips from between the disks. Using your flat file, carefully remove any burrs from the chamfered edges; do not touch the polished surfaces with the file.
9. We are now ready for final assembly:

1. Fill the 9 chamfered holes with the flat head machine screws.
2. Place a 6-inch x 6-inch wood block over the disk to retain the screws, then place the disk on your workbench with the machine screw threaded shanks up.

3. Place six round washers on the six outer screws, one star washer on the center three.
4. Next place one of the thinner disks (#452) over the washers.
5. Continue with another set of washers, another thin plate, another set of washers - finishing with the thick end plate (#451).
6. Next flip the entire assembly over on the workbench using the wooden block pressed firmly against disk #452 - to retain the machine screws.
7. Remove the wood block and carefully begin threading all 9 machine screws into the back plate simultaneously -- using the supplied hex key.

Do not cross thread the screws. If the screws do not thread easily into the back plate, back them off and try again. If they still won't turn easily, chase the threads of the back plate with the 10-24 tap, making sure to blow out all metal chips (preferably with an air jet nozzle.)

8. Once all of the machine screws thread easily and simultaneously into the back plate, continue tightening the screws in a circle until they are all as tight as possible without stripping.
9. With all of the screws torqued down, the threaded shanks may then be ground flush with the end plate.

If you are going to use compressed air only to power your turbine, a thread locking compound like Locktite may be used to secure the screws. -- Otherwise use a sharp prick punch or stainless welding to secure the screws.

To use the punch securing method, simply hammer several dimples around the circumference of the screw-thread juncture.

10. For those of you who do not have access to a lathe, the inner and outer disk diameters may be cut by hand, but the procedure is a bit harder. The inner bore may be cut with an adjustable hand reamer (Victor, MSCdirect, Grizzly, etc.). Once the 3/4 inch inner diameter is made, the disk pack may be mounted on a grinder motor, or simply an electric motor with a 3/4-inch arbor. Use a hardened file to true-up the outer diameter and cut the chamfers.